Figure Eight Family
The simple Figure 8 knot is of little practical use in rescue, as it does not join ropes together or create loops for attachment of carabiners. The practical variations of the Figure 8 knot all show two parallel ropes tied in a Figure 8 knot. The figure 8 does not need to be safetied, but…
Read MoreFigure Eight on a Bight
End-line knot and good end-line safety knot. Applications: Used wherever a loop is needed in the end of the rope for clipping carabiners. In EPCSAR, the figure 8 on a bight is used for: Load line for technical evacuations Tensionless anchor Piggyback hauling system Safety knot at the end of a rappel line to prevent…
Read MoreFigure Eight Retrace (AKA Figure Eight Follow Through)
The Figure 8 Retrace is identical in form to the Figure 8 on a Bight. It is used when the end of the rope is to be tied around or through something. It is the usual knot used by rock climbers to tie into their harnesses. While this is a common practice and makes for…
Read MoreSquare Knot
The square knot is used to tie the two ends of a single line together such that they will secure something, for example a bundle of objects. In SAR the only place we use a square knot is to finish the creation of a NASAR webbing harness. Applications: This knot is used in SAR to…
Read MoreDouble Sheet Bend
While the double sheet bend is frequently used to tie two ropes of dissimilar diameters, it has come into common use in mountain rescue for joining two ropes of the same diameter. Both tails of the double sheet bend must be safetied. VARIATION: Double SHeet Bend on a FIgure Eight on a Bight Applications: Used…
Read MoreHigh Strength Bowline
End-line knot. The classic way to remember how to tie the bowline is as follows: There is a tree next to a rabbit hole. (Make sure the tree comes up from under the hole) The rabbit (the tail of the rope) comes up out of the hole, runs around the tree (twice), and goes back…
Read MoreWater Knot
Used for webbing only. Does not require a safety, although long tails should be left on both sides of the knot. Application: For joining two pieces of webbing or for forming a sling. This knot will slip with time and load. Load the knot firmly before use. When tied, there should be approximately four-inch tails…
Read MoreButterfly (AKA Alpine Butterfly)
Mid-line knot. Probably the best mid-line knot due to the fact that it can be loaded in either direction. Applications: Used for mid-line rigging where you might need to clip a carabiner into the middle of the rope. Advantages: Can be loaded in either direction. Unties easily after loading. Disadvantages: Takes practice to tie correctly.…
Read MorePrusik Hitch
The Prusik hitch is used for attaching a sling to a rope without tying a knot in the rope. The Prusik hitch slides easily on the rope when unloaded and pushed from the end, but locks tight on the rope when the sling is loaded. Three wraps should be used for any Prusik that will…
Read MoreDouble Fishermans
One-half of a Double Fisherman’s is the most common safety knot for all other knots. To tie a Double Fisherman’s, wrap one rope around the other two times and pass the tail of the rope back through the two loops. Think about starting at one end, wrapping toward the center, and then finishing toward the…
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