Introduction
The purpose of this discussion is to provide a set of commands that should be uniformly understood by all field-capable members of EPCSAR. These commands cover typical on-rope work including belaying, climbing, rappelling, wheel carryouts, scree evacs and vertical evacs.
It is not practical or desirable to dictate a limited vocabulary to cover all communication between members during technical operations. However, commonly understood meanings to simple, clear commands improves efficiency. It should be acknowledged that other teams use different commands, and in some cases use the same commands to mean somewhat different things. Reasonable precautions should always be taken, especially in circumstances when a misinterpreted command can have serious consequences. Efforts have been made to define commands that will not likely be mistaken for other commands. For example, “Lower” and “Slower” are generally not used.
Commands
| COMMAND | GENERAL USE | MEANING | COMMENTS |
| On Belay? | Any belay situation; climbing or technical evacuation | Request from climber or litter to belayer or break to verify that the belay is ready to accept the full load | – |
| Belay On | Any belay situation; climbing or technical evacuation | Reply from belayer or brake to “On belay?” | Load should not be placed on the system until this reply is received |
| Up Rope | Any belay situation; climbing or technical evacuation | Request from climber or litter to take up slack in rope | – |
| Rope | Any Technical Setup | A rope is about to be thrown | – |
| Rock | Anytime anything is falling | Something is falling | It is not necessary to identify the object falling; “Rock” is clearly understood |
| On Rappel | Rappelling | Rappeller is starting down the rope | Often followed by the rope color (or other rope identifier) if several rappel ropes are in use |
| Off Rappel | Pappelling | Rappeller has removed himself from the rope and it is clear for the next person | – |
| Climbing | Belayed climbing | Climber is ready to climb | – |
| Climb | Belayed climbing | Belayer confirming that he is ready for climber to climb | – |
| Tension | Belayed climbing | Take up slack in rope and pull rope tight | – |
| Falling | Belayed climbing | Climber is falling or about to fall | A safety courtesy only. Climber will obviously not always be able to give warning of a fall |
| Loading the Litter | Technical Evacuation | Litter informing the brake that the system is being loaded | – |
| Anyone not ready | Technical Evacuation | Query form any team leader before issuing a command | Better than “Everyone Ready?” as only the lack of a reply ensures that the entire team is ready |
| Lift on Three | Technical Evacuation | Litter bearers lift the litter on count of three | |
| On your command | Technical Evacuation | Command from top commander that uphill or brake is ready to move at litter’s command | The litter mover at the litter’s request, not at the top’s request |
| Down | Technical Evacuation | Litter requesting to be lowered by the brake | – |
| Slow | Technical Evacuation | Litter requesting reduction in movement speed | – |
| Down down | Technical Evacuation | Request from the litter to increase lowering speed | – |
| Head | High angle technical evacuation | Request from the litter to move only the rope connected to the head of the litter up or down, depending upon whether an up-haul or lowering is underway | – |
| Foot | High angle technical evacuation | Request from the litter to move only the rope connected to the head of the litter up or down, depending upon whether an up-haul or lowering is underway | – |
| Stop | Technical evacuation | STOP! | Anyone can call stop |
| Stop why stop | Technical evacuation | STOP! Query from litter, brake, or haul team; the litter has stopped moving and the reason is not apparent | Lack of movement could be due rope or litter caught on an obstruction. |
| Up | Up-haul | Raise the Litter | – |
| Up Up | Up-haul | increase the speed of raising | – |
| Set | Up-haul, sometimes lowering | Up-haul: Ratchet Prusiks are set and ready to take the load Lowering: Prusiks are set | – |
| Reset | Up-haul | Command from top command that the up-haul is to be reset | Alway preceded by “Set” from the prusik tender; should be relayed to the litter team as a litter my descend some |
| Reset ready | Up-Haul | Prusiks that arch to the haul line to load the line are set and ready for the up-haul to resume | These Prusiks may attach a separate “Piggyback” haul system to a load line or attach a pull to a load line in a simple system |
| Down on three | Technical evacuation | Litter bearers lower the litter to the ground on count of three | |
| Slack | Any belay situation; climbing to technical evacuation | Command from the climber or litter that slack is needed in the rope | Does not mean that the need for belay is past |
| Off Belay | Any belay situation; climbing to technical evacuation | Climber or litter in a safe location and belay is no longer needed | Climber or litter may or may not still be attached to the rope |
| Off Rope / Ropes Free | Any belay situation; climbing to technical evacuation | Climber or litter are no longer attached to the rope(s) and they can be pulled up | – |
| Belay Off | Any belay situation; climbing to technical evacuation | Reply to “Off belay” — Acknowledgment of command | |
| rf?#$@2c | Anytime | STOP! | Any misunderstood command means STOP |
Special Concerns
- During a technical operation, a radio channel should be devoted to the operation. All other traffic must use other frequencies or wait until the operation is over to avoid “walking” on potentially critical communications between the litter and brake or uphaul team.
- Remember to key the microphone and wait a second or two before speaking to ensure that the entire command is transmitted.
- As much as is feasible, these commands should be used in preference to anything else, and additional talking should be kept to a minimum. However, common sense should prevail, and if additional explanation serves a purpose, explain further. For example, if the litter needs to be raised only six inches during an uphaul, the litter probably should specify “Up Slow”. It is generally unnecessary to specify distances for movement of several feet.
- Generally, commands are not repeated. For example, if a litter captain calls for “Down”, the brakeman does not need to repeat the command back. Some situations may require repeating of commands, such as noisy situations where it is necessary to be sure the command has been heard.
